The 24 hours went by faster than I thought possible. I spent my time in the Lima airport getting dinner and splurging on an airport massage. It was a great decision! I boarded my plane from Lima to Houston a little after midnight. The plane ride was exhausting. I don't know if I slept or not, I tried. I was able to see the sunrise over the Gulf of Mexico. That was a sight!
I had a five hour layover in Houston. I was ready to be home! I caught up on phone calls, emails and prepared for staff development that I was co-leading in two days. Once on the plane, heading to Minnesota, I got very anxious to be home with my family. I took many pictures of the Minnesota landscape as we approached the MSP airport. I was so happy to be home, and incredibly grateful for the cultural exchange that I will forever cherish.
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I woke up not feeling the greatest. I was dizzy and my fingers and toes were tingly. I knew that I was fighting a small case of altitude sickness. I captured some balcony pictures, and knew that I had to see the city of Cusco. We walked around town and headed toward a cafe and plaza that Max recommended. On our way, we saw incredible murals and passed an intiguing museum. We decided to check it out. It is called Qorikancha. It was originally an Incan temple, but the Spanish built a cathedral around it. The Iglesia De Santo Domingo had beautiful paintings and sculptures. What a fantastic find!
From there, we walked a bit further to the Plaza de Armas Cusco. We ate on the balcony of a cafe and overlooked the park. We weren't able to stay too long because we were both taking a flight back to Lima. For me, the next 24 hours would be spent on a plane, or in an airport. My husband, family and friends all encouraged me to extend my trip to go see Cusco and Machu Picchu. I am so glad I listened to them! We traveled on a train for three hours to Aguas Calientes. From this quaint town, we rode a bus up the switch back to Machu Picchu. It was a beautiful day and we were smart to pay for a guided tour. I never would have been able to fully appreciate how sophisticated and well-constructed this city was and continues to be. We enjoyed a late lunch at a restaurant with a really interesting bar, and did some shopping in the market. We made our way back to the train station for another three hour ride. That night, Max met us at the hotel. It was his birthday so we had to celebrate with him in Cusco!
Our group's final session was painting Pucara bulls. We learned that people placed these on their rooftops or in their homes facing the front door. They are meant to protect the home. I painted my bull to resemble Peru's flag. This afternoon I ran a few errands and happened upon a few things that were fitting for the Fourth of July. In the afternoon, Rich, a fifth grade teacher from NYC, and I headed to the airport to head to Cusco. We were going to Machu Picchu in the morning. We arrived at the hotel by complimentary shuttle. We were staying at a fancy hotel. When I got to my room, I chuckled at the art above my bed. Corn is such an important part of Peruvian culture.
We went to the hotel restaurant and found ourselves listening to traditional music. We called it an early night. Our tour bus was picking us up at 4:30 a.m. This morning we shared our host community experiences with the group. It was very interesting to hear about the similarities and differences of our experiences.
We then had a shout out circle. It allowed an oportunity to publicly acknowledge someone who made a difference during this adventure. It was a heart-warming activity that I will definitely use in my 5th grade classroom this year. After lunch at the hotel, we took a bus ride to Pachacamac. It was an interesting museum and archaelogical dig site. It had more security than the other ruins we had been to and we were impressed with Pacific Ocean views. After this field trip, we went to Cala, an oceanside restaurant. The crashing waves were captivating. When we returned to the hotel, Jose Luis and Rocio joined the Peru Crew on the rooftop. Phil had accidentally taken his room key with him back to Lima. Jose Luis would return it for him. We said good bye to our new friends. Tomorrow everyone will be parting ways. Our morning session we met with alumni TEA teachers and created posters with our guiding questions. We were given an opportunity to have adiscussion with the panel, and then participated in a gallery walk to provide answers for our colleagues' guiding questions. This activity provided a lot of support for our Global Education Guide.
We went to the Inka Market to shop a bit in the afternoon. I bought some souvenirs to bring home. Phil and I walked back. I somehow found my way to Kennedy Park where all of the gatos hang out. It was great! I sat down on a bench and a cat sat in my lap. Another cat approached me too and they looked like they were ready to fight. I tried to scoot the cat off my lap, but he was not impressed. I had to stand up and let it fall off onto the bench. This morning was hectic. I overslept and needed to pack. I was unable to check in online. When we arrived at the airport, I was told that I did not have a ticket back to Lima since I did not check in online. Maria Eugenia helped me out and I was able to claim my spot on the plane after all.
The plane ride was quick and easy. We joined the other Peru Crew travelers at the Lima airport and made our way back to the Radisson. After check in, I took a long, hot shower with awesome water pressure. I also did my laundry again. I had time for a quick nap. In the afternoon, we visited the Cultural Center. We went to an exhibit featuring the Shining Path. The pictures were disturbing. What a horrible time in Peru's recent history. When we got back to the hotel, we decided on taking a "C" tour. We walked around Miraflores for the best churros, chocolates and coffee. I especially enjoyed the chocolate museum. We had dinner at Alfresco. I had sea bass with thyme. It was outstanding. We enjoyed hearing each other's stories. It felt great to be reunited again. This morning Maria Eugenia and Rosita came to say goodbye. They were on their way to school for a test they were going to administer. Later that morning, we went to a BBQ at the home of a friend of Jose Luis. There were English teachers who taught in other schools there. They were excited to use their English with us. We watched the game on TV and met the couple's beautiful girls, Fatima and Katalina. It was a relaxing afternoon in the home of new friends. Eventually, after a couple games of Jenga, singing and dancing, we made our way back to Kullayki Piruw. We were heading back to Lima in the morning. I am determined to travel back to Chiclayo again. This morning started out quietly. I sorted through pictures, and tried to organize them for when I would finally get caught up on my blog. Late morning, Phil and I decided to walk to Paseo Yortuque. We had driven past it multple times and were encouraged to only walk it during the day. The statues tell the history of Lambayeque, created by Juan Carlos Ñañaque. Most of what we saw, we had learned about at the museums. It was a fun walk, but Phil had to improvise when the sun peeked through the clouds. He forgot a hat and already had quite the sunburn on his head. He sported a new look and didn't resemble a tourist at all! On our walk, we also passed a bilingual school, and vehicles avoiding disaster on the rough roads. Unfortunately, we also witnessed a motorcycle flipping when the front tire hit a deep pot hole. We had Chifa for lunch. We were the only people in the restaurant. Since it was a national holiday, San Pedro y San Pablo, and school was closed for the day, we figured families were celebrating at home. Later, Jose Luis picked us up to go to Santa Rosa for the festival. It looked like a completely different town. It was bustling with people! There were caballitos de totura competitions, and a live band. Vendors were selling food, balloons, and toys. The celebration was in full effect! We enjoyed another gorgeous Pacific sunset before we went back to get ready for a farewell dinner with our friends. We had another extraordinary meal. Phil especially enjoyed the beef hearts. We were presented with a certifcate from Santa Ana school. We were incredibly grateful for this incredible experience. We ended the night dancing at a club. What amazing friends we have made! Chiclayo really is the friendship capital of Peru!
We started our excursion early. We had a four hour drive ahead of us. We stopped in Ferrenafe for a bag of bread to snack on and to change a tire. The pickup was filled with supplies of all sorts...school supplies, cooking supplies, food, toys, blankets, etc. Phil and I were a bit nervous on the narrow mountain roads. However, the views were stunning. We were thankful for a professional driver who knew the roads well. I cringed EVERY corner we rounded, hoping we wouldn't encounter another vehicle. There was only room for one vehicle on these roads! After hours of traveling, we finally arrived. We were immediately enamored at the sight of the bright traditional clothing. We took a quick tour of the school and unloaded the supplies. The school itself was run by two nuns. They had five schools in the region that they were managing. The people from this particular area had not received outside help in over a year. They were delighted to see us and had prepared a program for us. First, they raised their wind-worn Peruvian flag. Then, they sang the national anthem in Spanish, and a second time in Quechua. We were introduced, and other announcements were made. We were asked to sit, then we were given the gift of song and dance from the children and also an elderly couple. It was touching. When the program was over, we began handing out the supplies and gifts. My former students from last school year donated their extra school supplies that they did not need at home. These materials were happily accepted along with the assortment of school supplies that Phil brought. The pencil sharpeners that Phil purchased were a hit. I passed out smencils, friendship/amistad bracelets and Andes chocolates to the kids. Another moving moment was when the blankets were passed out. Although there was a language barrier, I recognized their appreciation. After I distributed the materials to the children, I gave bracelets to the adults. They loved them. They asked for the elders to get a second one, then a third. The elderly woman accepted the second, but turned away the third. Outside the school walls, kids were playing with their new toys-dolls for girls and trucks for the boys. The young boys had fun driving them around the sidewalk and dirt road. When we returned to the school yard, we were amazed at the transformation. A meal had been prepared for us by all of the families in the area. Each woman brought food in her K'eperina. We were treated with a plated meal of rice, corn, and cuy. The women sat in a semicircle on the ground and the men sat on chairs across from them. They offered us as much food as we could eat. It was an experience of a lifetime! It felt as if we were there for just an hour. Judging by the sunburn that both Phil and I sported, it must have been longer. On our ride back toward Incahuasi, Jose Luis convinced us that we must ride in the back of the pick up. It was only a 15 minutes ride or so. The breeze, the views, and the laughs made that an unforgettable part of our trip! Once at Incahuasi, we climbed up to an overlook area. It was quite steep and we needed to take it easy at that altitude, but the climb was worth it. The views were spectacular! While up there, I was approached by a young girl with items for sale. I bought three hand woven satchels. Then, I was lead to a different family's adobe home. There, I asked to buy some traditional clothing to bring home. I was able to buy a Lliclla (rectangular shoulder cloth), a K'eperina (rectangular carrying cloth), and a chumpi (belt). I would have purchased more but I misplaced a 100 soles note. On my way out, there was commotion. Their pig was walking on the roof of a building where potatoes were being dried.
I made my way the rest of the way down the steep hill and explored the town church. It had a tiny door, thatched roof, and over 100 years of character. I then wandered with the rest of the group to a store. I searched my purse for the 100 soles that was missing, and miraculously found it! I used it to buy another chumpi and a poncho for my husband, Mark. We had to head out so we could make it down the treacherous mountain road in the daylight. We were about an hour into our descend when we noticed the van, with our colleagues, had stopped. They had a flat tire. We made a three point turn on the narrow road. That was terrifying. We went back to where the van was stuck, and did another three point turn. Ugh! What happened next was like a scene from a movie. We loaded everyone from the van into the bed of the pickup truck! For three hours they rode the bumpy, dusty, frightening roads in the back of the truck. When we finally made it our of the mountains, everyone was covered in dust. I guess they were just grateful to make it off that mountain road. I was thankful for the stop we made in the morning to change the tire, and also for the brief experience in the bed of the truck, by choice. We saw the most magnificent sunset and a full moon! That night, I had dinner at Kullayki Piruw. Maritza took one look at me and went home (next door) to get some aloe for me. When I applied it to my face and gave it back, she insisted that I use it again in the morning, and that I share it with Phil. She is the best! Today Maxine joined us to observe a lesson I was teaching to primary students. I planned a critical thinking activity and incorporated movement and the English vocabulary words that Maria Eugenia suggested. Students had a hard time verbalizing why one of four choices was different from the other three. When asked to choose, they wanted to choose their favorite. I explained the directions again to Maria Eugenia. I didn't realize that she was having trouble explaining critical thinking to the students. The second round went a bit better, and eventually students did an excellent job explaining why they choose the object they did. It was a learning experience for me. These students were not accustomed to critical thinking. I would like to collaborate with these students throughout the upcoming school year. It would be exciting to Skype with each other and participate in these type of critical thinking activities together. After the lesson, I was able to share some gifts with the students. I brought Minnesota Conservation Volunteer magazines for the science teacher, maps of the world, Minnesota and the Twin Cities, pen pal letters, Minnesota postcards, handmade bookmarks, smencils, and bracelets that read Amistad on one side, and Friendship on the other. I ran out of time, due to our scheduled field trip to Tucume. I had to leave the extra gifts with Jose Luis to distribute at a later date. Tucume was amazing. The roads to this archaelogical wonder were horrendous. Again, security seemed to be lacking, by US standards. The museum was well done. It was so much fun to experience this incredible site with students. I especially enjoyed the walk to the dig site. There are 26 pyramids in this region. Archaeologists are currently working on site, still finding artifacts and new tombs. In fact, as we were walking by an area, with archaeologists at tables labeling clay vessels, I asked if I could take a photo. They answered no. (Update: I now understand why. Two weeks later a press release was shared, explaining the new findings at Tucume. We witnessed history being discovered!) Other delights from today include spotting a turquoise iguana, a Peruvian hairless dog, walking along people's farms, watching the restoration of the tombs, hiking up to a breathtaking panoramic view. We finished our time at Tucume with a lunch of goat. Our final destination for the day was a visit to an all-girls public school in Chiclayo, named Santa Magdelena Sofia Barat. Jose Luis arranged this visit with his sister, one of the assistant principals. This school was large and had multiple shifts. The girls wore brown uniforms are welcomed us with their smiles and heartfelt welcome posters. The classes we visited were packed with female students. We had an opportunity to introduce ourselves and answer their questions. At the end of the classroom visits, we were presented with a gift, a satchel that said Chiclayo. That was so thoughtful!
We met with the administrators afterward and explained our purpose for visiting Peru. After Maxine communicated with them in Spanish, they seemed to feel more at ease and trust our intentions. Phil asked some specific questions that turned things around and a relationship began to develop. We learned that the state of public education is rough. Only about 40% of the females will go on to a technical school. Most will prepare for jobs as a secretary, or acquire a job in hospitality. We decided that we would eat at Kullayki Piruw due to an early morning pick up. Maritza made delicious sandwiches that hit the spot! We said our goodbyes to Maxine and headed to bed. Tomorrow is an early start. Really, there has only been full days so far, but today's activities really ran the gamut. We began with a student panel of secondary students. They were last year students who were practicing their English and asking me questions about the culture of the United States. I used google tranlator a bit, and realized later that there was also a student translator available. They did an excellent job speaking English and supporting me by teaching me Spanish. One of the big take aways for both of us was how different higher education systems are structured. These 16 year olds were about to go to University to study their chosen career. If they made a change in their career path, they would have to start all over. I shared with them that many college students in the USA do not know what they are going to pursue for a career when they begin college. I also explained how college students take general classes that are applied toward their degree. They were shocked at the flexibility. From this Santa Ana campus, we boarded the preschool car to see the younger kids in action. Wow! It was impressive. We observed an English lesson for three and four year olds. They were learning the English names of fruits. Rosita, the English teacher had songs, matching puzzles, and movement games for the students to participate in. All of these engaging activities were packed into the short 30 minute lesson. Santa Ana preschool is a beautiful school. In addition to the classrooms, it has a pool for swimming lessons in the warmer seasons. It also has a full kitchen where the children learn to make food. From the preschool, we returned back to the primary and secondary campus. Peru was playing another futbol game so it was being shown on a large tv for the students to enjoy. After the game was over, we were told that students were going to present information about Chiclayo to us in English. We started with the secondary students. I was so impressed with how complete their presentations were, and also how well they were able to communicate their information in English. When the presentations concluded, we were offered authentic foods from the region, and wathced music and dance performances. Phil was even given the opportunity to play a drum. In the primary class, students also did an excellent job with their presentations. Maxine was able to join us for this fantastic experience. The presentations included powerpoints, more local cuisine, more traditional music, and more dancing. This time I was invited to join in! After the student presentations, Jose Luis, Phil, Maxine and I drove to downtown Chiclayo. We went to Plaza de Armas Chiclayo. We started exploring by visiting another gorgeous church, Inglesia Santa Maria. Next, we went to the Municipal Palace. There we went into an area that taught us about the Afro-Peruvians of Zana. Next, we walked to Mercado Modelo. It is a vast market where you could purchase anything and everything including: tennis shoes, blankets, fresh fish, goat hooves, cacti, voodoo dolls, beads, hair products, jewelry, kids clothing, herbs, etc. Our goal was to purchase blankets for our trip to Incahuasi on Thursday. My dad had donated money for this trip and with it, I was able to purchase 30 wool blankets to be handed out to families in need. After the market, Jose Luis drove us back up to San Jose for lunch. The restaurant where we had the fried fish, was closed down as the worker had mentioned. We found another restaurant and we were served a seafood soup. It had fish, clams, shrimp, mussels, and other sea creatures in a flavorful broth. It was fantastic. After, we went to watch the sunset at Puerto Eten. It was another gorgeous beach experience. The wind was intense and the sand dunes were works of art. We went back to Kullayki Piruw so we could get showered and ready for dinner. We have been eating all day! When Jose Luis brought us to the place he had in mind, I recognized the music teacher from Santa Ana School. We were in for a treat. Jose Luis chose this particular restaurant because the food was great and they allowed him to bring in live music. We were mesmerized by the talented trio who shared Peru's traditional music. What a day! Santa Ana School is new! It has only been in session for a few months. The building and grounds are gorgeous. We received a very warm welcome from the staff and students as they prepared for the Monday ceremonies. Jose Luis told us that every Monday they gather as a school. The program varies each week. Today, we experienced the flag ceremony, the national anthem of Peru and performances that embraced the history of the Chiclayan people. First, was an reenactment of Lord Sipan, then a Marinera Norteña dance, and finally the customary clothing of the Incahuasi was presented. After the ceremony, we went to a secondary classroom where I presented a video from my school and shared a bit about Minnesotan culture. Next, we observed classrooms of both secondary students and elementary students. We even watched a physical education class. One highlight was teaching elementary-aged students a game. I taught them coconut, palm tree, volcano, king. It took a bit to overcome the language barrier, but with the help of Maria Eugenia, they got the gist of it. I noticed a few things while entering the classrooms. First, the class size. Because it's a new school, some elementary classes were only 6 or 8 students. Unfortunately, only one student in each of those classrooms was female. In another room, four out of twelve students were female. Thinking back to they lecture in Lima, I wondered if girls were less likely to be enrolled in private school. Students at Santa Ana take pride in their work, using rulers and carefully jotting notes into their notebooks. They were eager to interact with us and made us feel not only accepted, but admired. I look forward to spending more time with these students! Jose Luis picked us up for lunch. He had his son along too. We went to a restaurant that he chose for the pollo a la brasa. When we arrived, the chef welcomed his tio, and informed us that it was Monday so he was only serving the traditional lentil meal. Apparently, every Monday Peruvians consume lentils to secure wealth. He asked us to come back at dinner time and he would have pollo a la brasa for us.
That evening, we went to a parent teacher meeting. Over sixty families attended! Phil and I presented Jose Luis and Maria Eugenia with the certificate from IREX and friendship lapel pins that displayed both the United States and Peruvian flags. Then, an outside agency led activities to educate parents about how to encourage leadership skills in their children. It was impressive. I appreciated the involvement of the families, and also the opportunity that the adminstration at Santa Ana provided. Check out the formal uniforms that the teachers wore to this event. That was another thing that impressed me. The teachers showed up, and also had handmade thank you cards made by the students to give to their parents. We made it back to the restaurant for the sought after meal. The chef made a delectable pollo a la brasa. I had a good night's rest and was ready for our next adventure. Breakfast today was a tamale, papaya juice and coffee. I struggle communicating with Maritza, the owner. She speaks no English, and I very little Spanish. Thank goodness for Google Translator! Jose Luis picked us up at 10:45 a.m. Edwing and his son, Pablo, joined us too. We took a scenic, and bumpy ride out to Sipan. The roads were awful. I could not believe that such an important museum and archaelogical dig site would be so challenging to get to. When we arrived at Museo de Sitio Huaca Rajada-Sipan, we started in the museum, learning about the history and admiring the artifacts. Next, we took a short hike to the dig site. There was nobody there but us! It was incredible that such a place had so little security, and so few visitors. It was hot, sunny, and the views were amazing. When we approached the tombs, I noticed an owl staring at us on the tree. It practically posed for us. There was a lot of wildlife noises in the area-birds, lizards, and even a perrito met us on the hiking path. We were surrounded by sugar cane, palm trees and many other varities of trees and plants. It was perfect. When examining the sides of the pyramids, the erosion had unearthed lots of rock, shells, and even pottery shards. It was unbelievable. History was being worn away each time it rained. From the museum, we set off to find the restaurant that Jose Luis wanted to take us to. The roads were rutted and we had some difficulty finding our way. We stopped often and asked locals to help guide us. We eventually found the hidden gem, Casa Sipan. The first thing we noticed were the flowers, then the peacocks, then we ventured further into the resort and saw the outdoor seating for the restaurant and the pool. What a place! We were told that the horse show would take place soon. We decided to order food and enjoy the show. Little did I know that I would be invited to take part in the show. The horse show began with a demonstration of how sure-footed this Spanish horse was. Then, the dance and horse show began. I danced a bit as the horse circled me. It was great. After my part in the show, I went for a short horseback ride. When we got back that evening, I asked Maritza when dinner would be served. She explained that on Sundays, the restaurant was closed, but I was welcome to grab some chicken from the refrigerator. I opted for a few varieties of crackers from the basket in my room. An hour later, there was a knock on my door. Maritza had brought me some fruit. She is so thoughtful! I was thankful for the quiet evening. I had some lesson plans I wanted to work on for school the next day.
Today started early...we had to meet in the lobby by 2:45 a.m. to head to the airport. The Lima airport experience was mostly uneventful. However, Phil did experience a thorough pat down. When we landed in Chiclayo, Peru's fourth largest city, we were amazed at how small the airport was. It has only two gates. Jose Luis was waiting for us, while Maria Eugenia was getting things settled at Kullayki Piruw. Kullayki Piruw is the hotel/bed and breakfast that was chosen for us. Kullayki translates to te quiero o te amo in Spanish. In English, I love you. Piruw has three translations from Quechua to Spanish. First, prepárate bien, which means get ready well in English. The second variation is pimienta, or pepper. The last translation simply means Peru. Whatever the intended meaning is, I think our home for the next week will be fantastic. When we arrived, we had a breakfast of chicken sandwiches, papaya juice and coffee. We didn't stay long, it was time to explore. We went to Lambayeque, the city. The region is also named Lambayeque and Chiclayo is the capital city. We started our tour of Lambayeque at the Plaza de Armas of San Pedro Garza Garcia. The park was beautiful. The landscape was manicured, the paths were tiled. It was quite amazing. We were impressed at the dance a group of teenagers were performing on the street. It was great to see them embracing their culture by dancing traditional numbers together. From there, we went on to explore the municipal building and churches. The San Pedro Cathedral was closed, but we were able to see the original church, and another church which people were attending. The inside of the church was intersting and charming. Its beams were curved because of the way the trees grew. Outside the church was a group of elementary-aged boys in military formation. We watched them as we walked by. I smiled at the intensity of the boy in charge, frustrated by the lack of effort from some of the other young boys. Kids are kids-I could imagine those two boys in my own classroom. Kids are kids everywhere.
These pictures cannot truly illuminate the beauty of this cathedral. The details are incredible and everything is in pristine condition. From there, we went to Museo Tumbes Reales de Sipan. I had no expectations as to what we would see. We were disappointed when the security guard made us put our cameras and cell phones in the car. Absolutely NO PHOTOS were allowed! That seemed a bit extreme at the time, but now I can appreciate the fact that there is no way any picture could capture the beauty of these artifacts. The intricate craftmanship is a wonder! The condition of the artifacts are exquisite. What an experience! Next, Maria Eugenia got picked up and Jose Luis, Phil and I took the coastal town/beach tour. Some things we saw on our drive: statues of Jesus, a variety of homes, huge trucks hauling sugar cane, lots of rice mills, rice fields, free range cows and goats, and lots of garbage. Jose Luis mentioned that dumping of garbage is a significant problem. The sides of the roads are filled with litter. There are stray dogs and birds that rummage in the piles. We even witnessed a garbage truck dumping the day's collection on the side of the road rather than the landill. We also experienced the smell of burning garbage, another problem in this area. Our first beach was in the town of San Jose. It was awesome. Jose Luis went into a restaurant and asked if they would cook for us and allow us to dine outside. He and a worker from the restaurant carried tables and chairs out to the beach. I had to explore. I love the ocean so much, but rarely see it. While I do get my fill of freshwater lakes, being Minnesotan, there is something both invigorating and relaxing about ocean waves crashing the sandy beach. I went to explore. Phil followed along too, taking pictures of the deserted boats lined up along the beach. I wanted to dip my toes in. I left my sandals and approached the Pacific. It was perfect, until an enormous wave crashed into me, and I didn't escape quickly enough. My sandals would have gone out to sea if Phil hadn't grabbed them for me. We returned to a meal of Inca Kola and fried fish. It was delicious! Our server chatted with us for a bit. He said that he was from Venezuela and would have to move into the city for work because business was slow. I was surprised to see how vacant the beach and buildings were. I guess it was because it was winter. On the drive to our next stop, we noticed stakes and make-shift buildings. We were told that people are claming their land for when they are able to build a home. Our second beach, Pimentel, was more developed, but still quiet for a weekend. We were hoping to see fishermen bringing in the day's haul on their caballitos de totora, reed boats. We had impeccable timing. The boats were just coming in. Families gathered around in hopes of purchasing fresh fish. I can see why Pimentel is the go-to beach in the summer. It's gorgeous. The third beach was eerily quiet on this Saturday afternoon. Santa Rosa would be holding a festival in just a few days to celebrate the holiday of the feasts of San Pedro y San Pablo. It was a quaint town. We hope to return for the celebration on Friday. Our next stop was in Monsefu. Jose Luis ordered picarones and I walked through the market in search of a bathroom. The first door with a baño sign was locked. I saw a second sign and tried to open it as well, but it was also locked. As I walked away, a woman from the shop across the alley gestured for me to follow her back to that second door. She knocked on a window, and a sweet, young face peeked back at us. The door opened, and I was escorted through the home, past the family eating dinner at their table, to the very back of the house where the toilet was. I knew that this was not advisable, but I had no other choice. I figured this service was available for a fee, so I dug around for some soles, and offered it to the teenager who showed me to the door. That was quite an experience. I was not expecting that. After I bought a few items at the market, we headed back toward Chiclayo. When I got back to my room, I needed to freshen up. It had already been such a full day and we were expecting company (other teachers and administrators from Santa Ana School) for a welcome barbecue dinner at Kullayki Piruw. I couldn't wait to rinse off the salt water in a hot shower. But, that was not to be. There was construction in the area, so the water pressure was minimal and the temperature was cold. It was a quick shower! We had a lovely dinner with delicious food. In addition to Jose Luis and Maria Eugenia, we met Chelita, Super Willy, Edwing, and another friend whose name escapes me, who joined us later. After dinner, we took a taxi to the 40/20 club, which was in walking distance. Apparently, it was not safe to walk there. We had so much fun listening and dancing to the live band. Thinking back to the Skype conversation, "You can sleep when you return to the US," I realized that Jose Luis was serious. There was so much to learn, explore and see in Chiclayo and he was determined for us to experience it all! Today began with another breakfast plate of new fruits. I cannot remember the names of them, but they were delicious! Our first session was an anthropological lecture on the culture and education system of Peru. From previous sessions, I knew that schools were not equitable in resources and that there was a considerable opportunity gap between females and males. We learned that the education system also oppressed indiginous Peruvians and the poor. The Ministry of Education is working to address these needs for a more equitable education for all. The problem is, the structures in place continue to confine females in their traditional roles and social economic status is static. Lunch at the hotel was amazing again. As you see in the pictures, there are a lot of choices. I wasn't left hungry or unsatisfied! This afternoon was a work session to prepare for our host community visit. I've been paired up with Phil, who teaches fourth grade in Long Island, NY. We had met in DC in February and had an opportunity to Skype with our host principal and teacher twice. We were told, "You can sleep when you return to the US." I laughed it off, but we do have a packed scheduled planned for our stay in Chiclayo. We are both grateful for Jose Luis and Maria Eugenia's enthusiasm for our visit. This evening we took another bus trip to visit students enrolled in the ACCESS program. Nobody was very clear what ACCESS was, and we thought it was night school. The ride there gave another glimpse into the streets of Lima. This gas station pictured above is actually the median of a busy road. There were people selling things everywhere. They walked between parked cars and sold food, candy, jewelry, whatever they had. There were many who also washed windshields for drivers stuck in traffic. We were told that a lot of the people were from Venezuela. Peru has had a lot of Venezuelans refugees in the past months. The ACCESS program was incredible to experience. Basically, the students enrolled are at the top of their class, and come from schools with low socioeconomic status. Accepted students commit to attending class every evening, Monday through Friday, for four hours to develop their English proficiency. During instruction, they practice reading, writing, listening and speaking in English. This happens after a FULL day of attending a regular public school. That is determination!
Back in Minnesota, today I would be recognizing the summer solstice and perhaps catching a bit of soccer with the World Cup on the tv. Here, in Peru, it is winter solstice and fútbol. I was the first to breakfast again. I continued my adventurous eating and tried new fruits. While I looked out the restaurant window, I noticed the dog walkers had dressed the dogs up in Peru jerseys in anticipation of today's game. The servers were also dressed for the game. Apparently, businesses even close down. We were surprised to see that the restaurant we had reservations with, was near a bustling crowd of people...a large screen was televising the big game! The Plaza de Mayor Lima was packed. in addition to the gigantic screens showing the game, there were also inflatables, mascots, and a lot of police officers. Peru was down when we arrived. Unfortunately, they never recovered. There were a lot of disappointed fans, but they were gracious in defeat. Tanta had excellent food! I have not been disappointed yet. Today's lunch, Mi Suprema de Pollo Maryland (fried chicken with a fried egg, over creamed corn served with french fries). Next, we hopped on the bus for a school visit. Our first school visit was canceled due to the game. However, our afternoon school was Carlos Wiesse in the north Lima district of Comas. The drive took about an hour from Miraflores. The further out we went, the more prevalent the poverty was. In fact, the streets were filled with people selling things (almost anything you could imagine) and vehicles navigating the traffic. When we arrived at the school, security unlocked the gate and escorted us inside. I wasn't expecting that. Once inside the school grounds, we met the adminstration and our student tour guides. Our Peru Crew split into smaller groups to observe a class. I attended religion. Although this is a public school, there is no separation between church and state. In fact, religion is a required class. Eighty percent of Peruvians identify as Catholic. I found many suggestions of the importance of Catholicism. There was a designated space for students to pray and crosses displayed throughout the campus. After our classroom observation, we were invited to be part of a panel. We were encouraged to ask students questions, and they, also asked us things that they were curious about. I was impressed by a young man who taught Joelle a traditional dance, and especially by how quickly she picked up the moves! There was also a young woman who asked a few controversial questions regarding our opinions of current events. She then sang for us, and had many of us fighting back tears. Her determination and curiosity was inspiring! After a few pictures, selfies, and exchanging names of our favorite rock bands, our visit came to a close. On the ride back, I was amazed by how many buildings had political ads painted on them. Many homes were built little by little. As families were able to, they built on to their homes. There are so many houses high in the hills. Some children walked an hour or so to get to school. In addition, many students worked to help out their families. Carlos Wiesse has two sessions early- or afternoon to accommodate the students and their families.
The evening was open so Diane, Elise and I explored Miraflores. We made a stop at an Italian restaurant (because they waved us in) and eventually ended up at BarBarian. There we had choripapas (hot dogs and fries) and quesadillas. I had to post a picture of us with the helmets on . Such a fun night! June 20, 2018 This morning we ventured to the US Embassy, where we learned a bit more about Peru, and the opportunities for continued connections between the USA and Peru. The security was impressive and we were warned from an earlier TGC group not to take a photo of the US Embassy. Thankfully, we were given this group photo. We learned more about Peru's education system, government, and safety while traveling around Lima and to our host communities. From the Embassy, we went to lunch at Panchita. I decided before arriving in Peru that I would be an adventurous eater. My goal was to experience authentic Peruvian cuisine. So today's lunch included lomo saltado and chicha morada, a purple corn juice. The food was delicious and plentiful! After lunch, we made our way to the Fulbright Commission. There, we learned more about the history of Peru's educational system, social class structures and circumstances, geographical implications, and current issues that Peruvians encounter. I found myself recognizing some of the same struggles that we face in the US, but also noted the differences in our governments and societal structures. In addition, we learned about the history of The Shining Path group and the impact that had on life in Peru from the late 1970s to early 2000s. The third "field trip" of the day was led by our host principal, Jose Luis. He, and his friend Rocio, picked us up at our hotel. They showed us the Lima neighborhoods of Chorrillos for amazing ocean and city views. Barranco, where we stopped at a quaint restaurant nestled along the coast, and finally we stopped in Santiago de Surco. There, we ate at an amazing restaurant called La Basilica 640. I was encouraged to take salsa dance lessons, and obliged. Phil and I had an incredible evening with our new friends. We were anxious to see what Chiclayo would be like!
“Wherever you go, go with all your heart!” -Confucius June 18, 2018 Here I go! I was feeling confident when I arrived at MSP to check in my baggage. I mean, my large suitcase was only half-filled. Nevermind the fact that I already had to repack it because it weighed in at 70 pounds! I did not expect to have to do a second repack, but it weighed 51 pounds. It was a good thing I could transfer my heavy pair of hiking boots easily. After that, I was thankful that the security check point was a breeze. The working dog enabled all travelers to keep their shoes on and all carry-on luggage in tact. I had an easy flight from Minneapolis to Houston and met up with half of the Peru Crew there. We caught up during a quick dinner, and before we knew it, we were ready to board our plane. From Houston, we set off for Lima. Our flight was a bit delayed, and we felt bad, knowing the Miami Peru Crew would be anxiously awaiting our arrival. June 19, 2018 The flight from Houston went smoothly and we were easily navigated customs, exchanged money, and found the rest of the Peru Crew. Since we arrived around 12:30am, we all had a full day of traveling! Our bus driver helped us load all of our stuff into the bus, and delivered us safely to our hotel. I was grateful for a speedy check-in and the wonderful food spread that the hotel had prepared for us. It was a warm Peruvian welcome! Although I did not get to sleep until after 2am, I was too excited to stay asleep. I woke up, early, ready for the day, and figured out where breakfast was served. Apparently, I am the early bird of the group! I was the only one from the Peru Crew in the restaurant. The breakfast was delicious, and the coffee was also note-worthy. Next, we all met for our first meeting. Our in-country consultant, Karina, gave us an overview of Peruvian history and culture. While learning about Peru's history, and looking at the diversity of the Peru's 32 million people, I found myself reflecting on the history of the United States, and its impact on who I am. Peru's flag will be flying all of Peru soon...not only to show support for Peru's presence in the World Cup, but also because all homes must display the flag for the entire month of July to celebrate Peru's Independence Day, July 28. The red of the flag represents the blood of the martyrs. The white symbolizes peace, and the emblem in the center shows Peru's wealth of animals, plants and the mining of gold and silver. Next, we enjoyed a midday meal together at our hotel restaurant. In addition to the buffet of appetizers and desserts, we also were served a plated entree. Look at the pictures! I have been adventurous and have been trying many new foods. One interesting thing about meals in Peru: lunch is the biggest meal of the day. After lunch, we took a bus and walking tour of Lima. We started at El Parque del Amor in Miraflores near our hotel. What a LOVEly place! We hopped back on the bus and drove through the packed streets through the neighborhoods of Lima. We made our way to Plaza de Armas where the Government Palace is located. The impressive fountain was built in 1651, but the original fountain was built in 1578 to replace the gallows. From here, we walked to the Monastery of San Fransisco, completed in 1674. I captured a couple of photos of the building, but we were not allowed to take any pictures on the tour or in the catacombs, so I purchased postcards. Although I am claustrophobic, I had to take the catacomb tour. There are 25,000+ bodies (bones, now) there. This place was listed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1991. We ended our first full day with dinner at Huaca Pucllana. The restaurant was built alongside the pyramids, which were constructed before the Incas. It was an incredible first day!
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